There are two yarns, one brown and one light green. You've got the woolen spun vs worsted spun reversed. Taking the spinning seminar from Cecilia Quinn I learned the difference between worsted and woolen is in the way the fibers were treated and spun. Worsted yarn = worsted prep + worsted spin Semi worsted = woolen prep + worsted spin Woolen = woolen prep + woolen spin Semi woolen = worsted prep + woolen spin Examples of worsted spinning would be short forward and short backward drafting. You absolutely do not have to use the same yarn recommended by the designer for a pattern. Ill choose a woolen spun yarn. Probably both because nothings ever simple ;). Woolen spun wears like iron without the amount of pilling common to worsted spun yarns. (using carded fibers). This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. Appreciate the info. 28 minutes. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. By clicking Accept, you consent to the use of ALL the cookies. Really, it's totally personal preference. This is because the fibers (compressed together in all directions, without combing) adhere more strongly to each other, This is a lightweight fabric, and, especially when knitted using Fair Isle technique, will long outlast a worsted spun garment. Closed Saturdays, Sundays and US Holidays, 2015- 2023 Lunatic Fringe Yarns - All Rights Reserved Worsted is about both how you spin and how you (or your supplier) prep. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. Now I can make better informed decisions when selecting yarns for a project, and now that next trip to my LYS will really become an adventure! 100% Targhee-Columbia wool. During the Middle Ages, common agricultural practices were in flux because new breeds of sheep were being . Choose from twenty rich rustic heathers and support the Hydropower Project with your purchase. Its more precise than the yarns weight category of fingering, DK, bulky, etc. Im trying to educate myself on the different weights of yarn and could only find worsted listed as a weight. That pushes us in to the worsted end of the spectrum. An extreme example is angora or mohair. Yarn tends to come in hanks, balls, skeins, cakes, and cones. Just like cotton worsted is not always better than woolen. Woollen yarns (upper) have a softer, more diffuse look whereas worsted yarns (lower) make very distinct stitch patterns. The choice truly only depends on what you enjoy working with, what kind of fabric you want to achieve, how you plan on wearing the finished object, or all of the above. To produce our heathered colors, the scoured fleece is then dyed in a range of intensely saturated base solids, which are then blended together during the spinning process using percentages of the base colors unique to each colorway. Instead of carding the fibres they're combed. We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. Worsted-spun yarns are known for being more durable than their woolen-spun counterparts. Whats more, the acrylic content made it much lighter and softer than many other 100% cotton yarns. For example, a yarn labeled 2/fine (often known as fingering or sock weight) can have a WPI of anywhere from 12-18. Thank you for an excellent and informative article, Jill! May 2021 August 2019 Finally, more processed, worsted spun yarns don't aggravate my eczema . For many projects, it wont make much of a difference if youre switching yarn construction. After being spun into yarn, our worsted-spun yarns are dyed in the skein. Drafting is the process of adding twist to fiber, and of course it has an effect on your knitting. A drumcarder can also be used. This definitely affects your choice for a project that will be steeked, but also for fair isle or intarsia colourwork where the woolen spun will fill in the gaps between stitches of different colours. worsted-spun. May 2022 But just to make things tricky, it's entirely possible for a yarn to be both woollen and worsted, generally when a previously spun woollen yarn is re-spun using the worsted technique, creating a so-called semi-woollen or semi-worsted yarn. If you divide the length of the yarn by the weight, you get a ratio. You then spin using a long draw technique that maintains that rolled structure. Eg: gabardine. This causes the yarn to be light, airy with small fiber ends poking out. We consider it one of the finest worsted weight yarns out there. I hope you enjoy your next project. September 2022 Dogs Worsted-spun yarns are dense and strong. PHONE: 1-208-452-4948 Fabrics created with worsted spun yarns, on the other hand, will generally have better drape, smoothness, and stitch definition. The fibers of a worsted-spun yarn are first straightened and then oriented in the same direction, making the yarn smooth and shiny, which gives your knitted fabric lots of stitch definition. April 2020 Woolen yarn is less durable as compared to worsted yarn which may last longer. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other. August 2018 That turning gives the yarn some stability. This bulky weight blend of 80% acrylic and 20% wool offers the triple crown yarn benefits: it's machine washable and dryable, has the warmth and comfort of wool, and works up quickly. Your email address will not be published. It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. A lot of totally digestable information, that was logically arranged and illustrated and you even sprinkled it with touches of humor. Great article and most helpful. Copyright 2014-2023. Ill jump right in with the big one. Chickens In fact, the answer may not even be the same every time. Oh thats right! Gauge: 5.5 sts / inch on US 6. - From the online magazine Knitter's Review, by Clara Parkes. Ive put off learning more about the structure and the why and have just let myself be lead around MLYS making choices that just add to the stash but may not be right for the intended project. Countryside July 2018 Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn. How a yarn looks also depends on (did you read my last article?) . Time to read it again, more closely! So good! Woolen fabrics are spun from short fibers, while worsted wool is made from longer and fine ones. Theyre lofty yarns, so they make lightweight, absorbent fabrics, Elsa Hallowell says, which feel cooler when its warm and very cozy when its cold., Content: 100% pure virgin wool Put-Up: 170yd [155 m]/1 3/4 oz [50 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash gently in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 24 sts = 4 (10cm) on sizes 35 (3.253.75mm) needles, Flywheel is a sportweight version of Harrisvilles well-loved Watershed. Worsted noun. November 2017 Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. Contains spam, fake content or potential malware, Free Resin Jewelry Video: Yupo Paper, Alcohol Inks, and Resin, Knitting-Themed Artists We Love: Inspiration from Fiber & Needles, Celebrating Beadwork Artists on International Womens Day. If Im knitting a Fair Isle sweater and want it to be warm and have colors that are little blurred at the edges to blend well with each other. A woolen yarns loose, lofty structure traps and holds air, making it warm and light, but the air between the fibers allows them to abrade quicker. December 2015 Original Yarns Think in terms of shopping at a fiber show. These carded strands are lofty, lightweight, and trap a lot of air. Thanks for the clear and concise approach I get it now! January 2023 Brilliant. October 2016 Thank you for helping me understand these yarn differencesthis will help me understand why one yarn will make me swoon, and another yarn, totally different, really makes my knees weak. January 2022 Woolen yarns are the equivalent of cotton carded yarns, and worsted yarns are the wool equivalent of combed cotton yarns, they get the extra process to make them higher quality. As such, for our worsted-spun yarns, once the roving is loaded on the spinning frame, they first pass through a draft zone, which drafts the fiber to open it up and reduce it to the intended weight (and thickness) required for the yarn. Its a great way to see how things might turn out before you start working on your own projects. Your best bet is always to know how to make the substitution yourself. Note: Notice how the individual plies of Loft, Quarry, and Shelter (shown above, top to bottom) appear wispy and how the fibers in each single are oriented in every direction and nestled together in a disorderly manner. Spinningwithapurpose Yeah, were talking that level of soft. Woollen and worsted yarn are two types of yarn that can be handspun. Airy and soft, but fragile (because of the shorter staple and looser twist?). Yarnsub is a great resource for substituting yarns from larger companies! After picking, the fiber goes through acarder, a machine with several rolling cylinders covered in metal teeth. The amount of twist added when making individual plies of yarn is very important and can take the hand and behavior of the yarn in different directions. Worsted is used to describe the thickness of a yarn (worsted weight), one way fibers are aligned before becoming yarn (worsted preparation), and how twist enters fiber to become yarn (worsted drafting). For example, if they just list an email address for pattern inquiries, dont message them on every social media platform where you can find them, too. August 2014 Raw, dirty & weedy alpaca is what I'm practicing this woolen technique I am learning, from rolags. There are other ways to make woolen spun but this is the classic method. Its not just the beautiful dyeing. Please refer to Blacker Yarns blog for an explanation:,high%20proportion%20of%20short%20fibre. The way a yarn is spun - worsted vs. woolen - also determines how much fiber is used per yard. Try to get your WPI to match as closely as possible to avoid that problem. Color is usually lighter in a woolen drafted yarn. March 2016 Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. One method is not better or worse than the other - just different. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. However, roping is more commonly used to refer specifically to this stage inwoolen-spinning mills. Your email address will not be published. Brooklyn Tweeds Arbor (Targhee wool, worsted spun) and Shelter (Targhee/Columbia wool, woolen spun) are perfect examples. This will save me a lot of headache as well as trial and error. is traditionally spun from carded rolags (this was the job small children carried out). The fibers in stitches knit from woolen-spun yarn seem to literally bloom into the space theyre given. In the videos below, I'm using hand carded alpaca. In this blog, we will take a closer look at worsted and woolen yarns and what sets them apart. Although there is broad agreement about the extremes of woolen and worsted spinning, no firm consensus exists on what precisely defines the vast middle. There is a lot of technical information about the differences between woolen spun and worsted spun yarn, which you can read about here on the MDK blog. May 2013, All The Merino and Corriedale wool is gathered from Midwestern farms right here in the United States. *Membership cannot be purchased with Gift Cards. Combed top can be used to make yarns for items that are still going to be warm, like a hat, it just will not have the insulating ability of a yarn spun woolen, but will be stronger than a woolen spun yarn. December 2022 The type of yarns also depends on how they spun. I actually own a mini mill that creates semi-worsted yarns. Maurice Brassard Cotton Computer Color Numbers. A 100% wool sweater will look different from a sweater made from linen or bamboo fiber. The weight makes it great for outerwear, and the texture and structure allow for beautiful felted work. Worsted vs. Woolen. Thank you for there explanation. Advent May 2016 'Carding' is one of the processes which untangles the woo. Also softer than woolen yarn after carded. Use top to spin semi worsted. from Brown Sheep Company. This Targhee-Columbia wool blend comes from Wyoming sheep, and the fiber is fleece-dyed (dyed before spinning), which is made visible in Shelters thirty-two heathered colorways, especially the darker ones with lighter hues intermixed. October 2019 This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The best article ever on this subject. Thats because yarn weight is one of the key elements that affects the gauge of your knitting. Theres also Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy, just saying. Heres why: when the fibers in the yarn irregular in length and nestled together in every which way are soaked in water during the blocking process, they get the chance to relax, and then they readjust and mingle with each other even more as they dry, creating a solid and cohesive piece of fabric. As such, for our woolen-spun yarns, the strands of roping are simply loaded on a spinning frame, where they are concurrently drafted, twisted, and wound onto bobbins to become singles for plying. Both woolen and worsted spinning methods make beautiful yarns. March 2019 The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". This is why many stranded colorwork knitters prefer to use woolen-spun yarns; because of their bloom, different colors end up blending together at the edges for a painterly effect. There is a great site called yarnsub which compares most if not all of these elements and suggests alternatives. At Brooklyn Tweed, we employtwo basic spinning methods that occupy either end of this broad spectrum of possibility: woolen-spinning and worsted-spinning. To begin the spinning process, apickeris used toloosely separate large masses of fiber into smaller onesand to mix the heathered shades of our woolen-spun yarns. July 2021 Thank you for this article. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. Brava! Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features. August 2022 But its so difficult to choose between the two Tom Hardys. Trust me, they r super different in thickness. ). Generally, the higher the ply number the thicker the yarn. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. October 2013 There are myriad ways to prepare and spin fleece and fiber into yarn. The twisted singles are then plied together on the twisting frame Arbor is comprised of three plies, while Vale is comprised of two. One method is not better or worse than the other just different. I feel I finally understand the difference. Very good, educational description. A lot. Maybe you have moral or ethical concerns about the recommended yarn company, or maybe you just dont like the recommended yarn, or maybe youve got another yarn you really like that youd rather use instead. I think it also helps to think of the woolen spun as grippier (as in grips more) since all the fibres are not tamed into a smooth yarn but are sort of sticking out all over. Is there a list? You can also go to the (Ravelry link) yarn ideas tab to see what yarns other people have substituted. January 2016 Theyre great for items that wont get a ton of friction while youre wearing them and that you wear against sensitive skinthings like hats and cowls. That's how I learned to do yarn substitutions, too, and it was a hard and frustrating process. Carding, and the rolling in to a rolag creates a spiral of wool fibres wrapping round the tube. Worsted Spun requires a very different fibre preparation, and spinning technique. Now I know. If you ever created your own cord or unwound a hank of yarn, then that's the exact same process. They may not be able to get to yours quickly, or even at all. Very well spot on! Our BWC Wisconsin Woolen Spun yarns are two-ply in both the fingering and worsted weight and are available in 100 gram skeins. February 2022 Woolen spun yarns will bloom more after washing and are lighter and airier. These two spinning techniques are also the basic, standardized methods employed in commercial yarn production though, as noted in Knitting in the Old Way by Priscilla A. Gibson-Roberts and Deborah Robson, more and more spinning mills today follow a hand spinning approach to commercial spinning, adapting processing and spinning techniques to enhance the natural characteristics of a particular fiber or to achieve a yarn well-suited for specific kinds of knitted fabric.